Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Kansas City, Here we come!


 Kansas City, Missouri, is the only place I’ve lived that has 4 very distinct seasons. The winters were cold with snow, then everything would burst into bloom with the first warm days of spring. Summers were hot, humid and green with frequent thundershowers. In autumn the deciduous trees and shrubs turned brilliant shades of red, orange and yellow.
Sumac in autumn
We were very excited when my father was transferred to the Kansas City area. Over spring break, we took a house hunting trip to KC. Compared to Wichita, it looked like paradise. While Kansas was still brown Missouri already had tulips, daffodils and many trees and shrubs in bloom. There seemed to be deeper sense of history, permanence, and civic pride. People were proud of their home landscaping. Public parks were designed by landscape architects. My parents bought a house in the suburban town of Gladstone (called Happy Rock by the locals). The surrounding countryside had rolling hills, woods, picturesque pastures, many streams, ponds, small lakes, and the mighty Missouri River.

Between our house and the neighbors grew a large black walnut tree. My mother used a hammer to break open the walnuts on the garage floor and then added them to homemade vanilla ice cream. Down the hill behind the house was an undeveloped wooded area with a small stream. My younger brother and I would spend countless hours exploring the area. We found 2 arrowheads and the neighbor found a cannon ball, presumably from the Civil War. Wild redbud trees bloomed in the spring and in summer fireflies lit up the woods. In early fall sumac and poison oak turned scarlet. In the winter we’d walk on the frozen creeks and sled down the hills when the snow was deep enough.

But the best season was spring. There was a progression of flowers unlike anything I’ve seen anywhere else. The landscape would quickly turn from winter brown to vibrant green. The season was heralded with fragrant hyacinths and yellow forsythia, followed by tulips, white spirea and flowering trees. It concluded in May with peonies, heavy-scented lilacs and roses. Everyone acted differently and I understood the meaning of spring fever – you know - the desire to be outside immersed in nature. All of these colorful plants, unknown to me, seemed to be begging for attention.

In our yard, mother would grow the most beautiful rainbow-colored tall tulips in front of the house. In the summer on the south side of the house she grew lilies, roses and zinnias. At the edge of the lot she would grow tomatoes. Knowing it was unlikely we’d live there long enough to see them mature; she planted fruit and maple trees in the lawn.
Dam that forms Lake Taneycomo
Photo by my grandfather
My father was born in and grew up in Branson, Missouri. We frequently visited his mother there. The drive through the Missouri countryside with old red barns and pastoral farms looked like Currier and Ives paintings come to life. As you approach Branson, the hills became taller and more wooded. My grandmother owned a small souvenir shop on Lake Taneycomo where she hand-colored and sold postcards and photos of the Ozarks taken by her husband in the 1920’s. After my grandfather’s sudden death in 1925, she ended up owning a sizable part of downtown Branson. Over the years she would sell off parcels…but it would all be gone before the re-birth of Branson with country music and all that followed.
Lake Taneycomo, in the Missouri Ozarks
My grandmother only had one flowering plant in her yard, four o’clocks, Mirabilis jalapa. They weren’t much…but they were fun to watch open each afternoon. However, a neighbor had a gigantic vegetable garden with towering tomatoes, corn and squash. She grew giant beefsteak tomatoes that were the size of grapefruit and tasted fantastic.
I know this view well.  Lake Taneycomo as you enter Branson on the old Highway.
My grandfather took the photo. My grandmother hand-colored it.
The lake was just down the hill from her house and was set in a narrow wooded valley with a cliff on the far side. The lake was very cold because the dam that formed the lake was inoperable so the warm water lake flowed over the top. Upstream Table Rock Dam pulled cold water from the depths of the lake and fed it into Taneycomo. Rarely reaching 50 degrees the lake was too cold for swimming, but perfect for trout. On a balmy summer evening, my brothers and I took rented paddle boats out on the lake and watched the summer fog rise up from the cold clear water. That night we’d be awakened by the sound of thunder echoing through the Ozark Mountains.
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River of Grass



The biggest publicly accessible landscape in Florida is also the largest subtropical wilderness in the US: Everglades National Park. At 2400 square miles it still only protects about 1/5 of the original Everglades. The Everglades are a natural freshwater drainage system flowing south form Lake Okeechobee to the Gulf of Mexico and covering much of south Florida. The most dominant plant, which also gave the Everglades its pseudonym “River of Grass”, is sawgrass, Cladium jamaicense. Though technically sedge, sawgrass grows to 3 feet tall in slow moving or standing fresh water. Sedges have edges, grasses have stems; and the edges of sawgrass are armed with very fine saw teeth that will easily cut you.




Most people think of south Florida as endless white sand beaches. However, the metropolitan areas of Miami and Ft. Lauderdale also are adjacent to the Everglades just to the east. Many of the plants and animals associated with the Everglades were also found in undeveloped areas near our neighborhood. There were palmettos, pines, and peat fields nearby. In an extended drought one summer, the peat caught fire and burned for days. Alligators and catfish lived in the nearby canal and there were many snakes, lizards, frogs, burrowing owls and other birds just a few blocks from our house.

On cub scouts trips and on weekends, we’d visit nearby Seminole villages and alligator wrestling venues, and took fishing trips into the mangrove swamps.
Me in the rose garden at
Patricia Murphy's restaurant, Ft. Lauderdale 

Anhinga bird
Drying its wings in the sun
In the early 60’s a TV show called "The Everglades" gave the impression of the Everglades as an exotic and dangerous place. The show featured airboats chasing criminals and the theme song popularized the phrase and song, “Movin', ever movin' through the Everglades". My brothers and I begged our parents to let us go on an airboat ride. An airboat is a flat-bottomed boat with an airplane propeller mounted on the back. While the airplane engine allows the boat to travel quickly in very shallow water and helps ease the oppressive humidity, in reality it wasn't nearly as much fun as we imagined. The propeller and engine are so loud and pull so much air that we could not get beyond the fear of being sucked into the blades. Add to that the bug-laden air, the constant spray of muddy, murky water, and being just inches above a swamp filled with sawgrass and reptiles and it was just too much for a nine year old cub scout to truly appreciate the experience. Today due to the environmental damage to plants and animals, airboats are banned in much of the Everglades, though there are still commercial trips just outside the park.

One year we took a longer trip inside the Everglades National Park and stayed at the Flamingo Lodge. (The Flamingo Lodge was damaged beyond repair in 2005 by hurricanes Katrina and Wilma and no longer exists.) This introduced us to the much more subtle and natural side of the everglades and provided a much deeper appreciation of swamp ecology. We saw raccoons, alligators, large snakes and bird estuaries in the mangroves. On a ranger-led tour, we learned about the anhinga bird that fishes in the water but lacks waterproof feathers. It climbs into the trees and outstretches its wings to dry in the sun.
Postcard from the hurricane destroyed Flamingo Motel
On elevated walkways we visited tropical hardwood “hammocks”. Hammocks are tree islands and the only dry land in the park and home to many unique plants and animals. There are 1000s of them rising out of the swamp with live oaks (Quercus virginiana), saw palmetto (Serenoa repens), short-leaf fig (Ficus citrifolia) , wild-tamarind, West Indian mahogany (Swietenia mahagoni), and many other tree species. The mid-story plants form an impenetrable understory perfect for sheltering larger animals. Trees are draped with Spanish-moss (Tillandsia usneoides) and other epiphytes. These hammocks are small ecosystems teeming with life and an amazing amount of diversity.

For the last 100 years the Everglades have been under severe stress due to invasive plant and animal species and encroachment by adjacent communities and their need for fresh water. As California gardeners we would recognize many of the invasive plants species;Melaleuca quinquenervia, Schinus terebinthifolius (Brazillian Pepper), Eichhornia crassipes (water hyacinth), Pistia stratiotes (water lettuce), Cupaniopsis anacardioides (Carrotwood). Our short visit left me with a better understanding and appreciation of natural ecologies and how important they are to preserve and protect.

For more information online:
nps.gov/ever/index.htm
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My First Plant Memories

The first plant that I remember wasn't beautiful, anything that you would ever want grow in your garden, or even alive. It was an invasive weed brought to the U.S. by accident in a shipment of Ukrainian flax seed to South Dakota in 1877, or at least that is the story you often hear. I'm talking about the plant that by the mid-1950's had become emblematic of the high plains, the tumbleweed. It was 1958 we were living in Monahans, Texas. We moved every 2 years or so as my father, a civil engineer,  constructed electrical power plants that was occurring across the nation - trying to keep up with the rapid growth in electricity demand in post-World War II
baby-boom America. My parents would have preferred to have lived in Midland (where oil company executives lived) or even Odessa (where oil roughnecks lived) but there was housing shortage and we weren't staying long, so they had to settle for shotgun shack in less attractive Monahans. Years later in high school I'd have a friend that was also from the area. She described the area as so barren that people often mistook the 3 trees in their front yard as a roadside park and they would regularly chaise away the picnickers. My mother would recollect that if it didn't have thorn on it, it wouldn't grow in Monahans.

Our House in Monahans, Texas


Tumbleweeds piled against a wall
Anyway back to tumbleweeds and my first plant memory. In the fall, when the winds from the northwest would blow, dead tumbleweeds break free of their roots and roll across the high plains to spread their seeds. They invariably ended up coming to rest against anything that stopped them, such as fence or the side of a house. So one of my earliest memories was my father setting the tumbleweeds 'free' to continue rolling before they dropped all of their seeds against the side of the house.


Me and my brother
inside the Shasta camper
Fortunately, my parents (neither from Texas) knew there was more to be seen in the southwest than endless horizons, frightening hail storms and oil wells. They bought a Shasta trailer-camper and on long weekends and our annual two-week car vacation we’d head off to see the sights. The only trip that I remember was to Yosemite. We visited the Mariposa grove and like everyone else drove through the Wawona Tree - a giant Sequoia that had a tunnel cut through the middle back in 1881. The trailer got stuck and dad deflated the tires on the trailer to fit it through the tree. Sadly, the Wawona tree fell in a 1969 storm.
Wawona Tree in the 1950s



So, my first two plants memories represent polar opposites in the world of Horticulture. One became the emblem of how “civilization” forever changed the high plains; the other became the emblem of the Sierra Club and America’s attempt to save natural landscapes for future generations.

Luckily, our stay in west Texas was short lived and my encounters with plants would improve dramatically over the years; until today being fortunate enough to live in wonderfully horticulturally diverse Southern California. My horticultural experiences will get better than tumbleweeds.
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